Aswan Holiday | Egypt

Aswan, in Upper Egypt, is at once a delight and a relief, especially after you have just arrived from the bustling, maddening, pulsating, exhilarating metropolis of Cairo. Many people would have visited the capital as their first port of call on their holiday, and would then have taken a train, down south towards the other famous historic city of Luxor, and then onto Aswan. Or they might have taken a leisurely Nile cruise from Cairo. The big attraction is the Great Temple of Rameses II at Abu Simbel situated nearby, about 170 miles further south from Aswan.

But Aswan itself is a respite for the hectic visitor to Egypt, and if time allows for staying three or even four days, the city of Aswan has much to offer and enjoy in a leisurely pace - though if you want to, you can "do it" in one day, but by doing that you are not letting yourself the chance to savor the atmosphere or the style of life of Aswan.

Arriving by train is a good experience, because as you step out of the railway station, you are confronted by a magnificent wide avenue, with open space and sky, and looking towards the Nile with the rocky mounds just across the river in the background. So that's a nice introduction to Aswan. Immediately you sense the more relaxed and laid-back pace of the city

The train journey itself could be somewhat tiring, some ten hours long from Cairo, and the washing facilities soon become best to be avoided.

It is best to stick to the 5-star hotels, especially for the uninitiated. Go for the lower end of the range. But it's a huge gap between 5-star hotels and those given fewer stars, although the star system does not seem that consistent. 4 stars may still be acceptable. If you search around the internet a bit, you can sometimes find quite reasonable rates for a good hotel. But you need to shop around a little. The 5-star hotels are of international standards, and there should not be much to complain about in terms of service, facilities and cleanliness. In any event, try to avoid so-called budget hotels if you can. It's not worth saving a few dollars this way. (This is speaking from experience.)

We stayed at the Pyramisa Isis Island Resort Aswan, and it was a delightful hotel, situated on a vast property with well-tended grounds and good facilities. A little bit out of the way, because to get there from the city you must get a a ferry service that shuttle between the hotel and the city side of the Nile. But it's a frequent service, around the clock, and the trip takes less than 10 minutes. It actually seemed like a very civilized way to travel, quite in keeping with the pace of Aswan. There are other hotels at dazzling prices, which I did not even dare to set foot in.

Every Egyptian city has them - souks - street market areas or bazaars selling all kinds of souvenirs, clothes, trinkets and more. Aswan is no exception. The main souk is off to the left as you emerge from the railway station. It's a long stretch of shops, stalls and eateries brimming with tourists and locals. But not as hectic as the Khan al-Khalili (or al Hussien, as the locals call it) in Cairo.

The street bazaar in Aswan was recently cleaned up, so it's quite tidy and spacious. A walk through it can actually be quite leisurely, despite the constant invitations from the shop keepers and hawkers to induce you to try their wares.

There is a newish McDonald's restaurant along the river bank. So for those who hanker after a bit of American fast food, all is not lost. Actually it is a good McDonald's with a wide variety of your favorites available. You will spot a lot of tourists stopping by for a bite, and it's also well patronized by locals.

As you go along the river bank, you will see several cruise ships moored alongside, empty of their passengers. You can also get onto a falucca for your own little cruise along the Nile.